Snow and Tango

Here are some pictures from the past three weeks that have been waiting for a fast enough internet connection. I'm not used to snapping photos and frequently forget my camera, but I promise there will be more.

N

See all that glare behind me?

Yeah, that's ice.

My ass was killing me.

Foothills of the Andes just west of Mendoza.

Monement to the Army of the Andes on Cerro de la Gloria in Parque San Martin

I like the Condor on the lower right

Road Hog

Tango Show finale

I takes two to Tango

Climbing Trip

Finally folks, I have some pictures. The climbing trip last weekend was incredible, but very cold. Usually when you climb, you can find holds with your fingertips alone. On this trip... my hands were so numb, I had to look at my fingers to make sure they were solid because I couldn't feel the rock. Needless to say, we did less climbing and more hiking.

Camp

Juan Paulo on top of the world

Me in the Andes

High Nate

At least -10 C at night.

Very glad the new sleeping bag works.

This path led up a tiny canyon to a route right by a waterfall.

Muy Linda!

An Ode To The Boat

When i needed Ocean's swell,

gravel clacked in your wheel well.

You banked and cruisedyou were my boat.
Cracked window scaled each landscape's note.

Sweet music of the open road

You sang and shouted, even crowed.

You climbed a mountain, you old salt...

for me to summit rockytop

Could not outrun their shiny rig,

but you still tempted every pig.

Some would think you were a pest...

My girlfriend's first sobriety test

I close my eyes at night and sigh

upon your hood, a starlit sky.

Weighed a ton,

Rest in peace.

You wouldn't drive for anyone

but me.

Banging Pots and Pans

Wrote this one last week, but couldn't post it right away:

Im afraid I have to start off this entry on a sad note. I found out today that back in the States, while The Boat was being driven to her new home she finally quit. If you never had a chance to meet my Tank she was a dented, rusty 84 Chevy Caprice : ghetto fabulous, smooth and loud... she will be missed. I guess she didnt want anyone driving her but me.

I have been brushing up on my Argentinian politics ever since I attended a protest this past Monday (6/16) to take some pictures. My host family, like most of Argentina it seems, has been paying close attention to the standoff between striking farmers and the current administration. It was all complicated, I had been repeatedly assured and seemed quite far away.

On Monday evening I was pleasantly comatose... until rudely awakened by near continuous car horns and gratuitous saucepan bashing outside (very loud).

After watching the news and deciding that yes, in fact, I still could not understand Spanish, I grabbed my camera and walked downtown to see for myself.

From talking to my spanish teachers and reading a few articles (including the one below), the tradition of saucepan bashing in protests began in Buenos Aires, January of 2002 when it lit up apartment balconies, spread across the city, and ended in a spontaneous and violent clash with police in the city central Plaza de Mayo. Empty pots... empty stomachs, the sound of hunger was deafening.

(http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/americas/1754399.stm)

The protest I watched was one of many across the country... small, neither desperate nor violent. The tactic of saucepan bashing is pretty intense as you can see from the video clip I took.

The agricultural strikes and roadblocks affect delivery of groceries and things to stores around the country. As I walked past old women and young children banging pots and pans, I reflected on the relative stability I take for granted and the fragile nature of governments in general. It was not long ago that Argentinians experienced oppression by a tyrannical government. This memory is very much alive, it appears, as I watch the people demanding communication with their leaders. I still have much to learn about this situation.

Enough politics for today/this week... Im off to prepare for my climbing trip this weekend!

-N

Asado!

I had my first asado tonight... an asado is basically an Argentinian grill out. Lots of meat, LOTS of meat... wine, and food of all kinds. The house where my friend took me was very old, built in 1870´s, and very unique. Apparently its a lodge and winery/vineyard as well. Here´s the website with photos.

(http://www.baquerowines.com/photo_gallery.htm)

I am still attempting to habla espanol, so in addition to 4 hours of class every morning, two hours of spanish related activities provided by the school in the afternoon, breakfast and dinner with an argentinian family, Argentinian news on tv, and conversations at bars and clubs (these are usually a mix between three languages: spanish, english, and drunknate), I have added a project. Every day I will attmept to read/translate a spanish short story or poem. Yesterday I almost got through a whole sentence... yeah. So an hour of dictionary diving a day should do the trick.

Thanks to everyone for the encouraging emails and notes. They really mean a lot.

Salut!

N

OLE!

The drums started beating faster, and time altered. It felt like being in a battle. One of those really old one's where smoke from cannon fire made it impossible to see further than the flag in front of you. And the roar of thousands, like a rising wave... topples over itself as the crack and boom of explosives whip the masses into a frenzy. All around you are widened eyes, gaping mouths, and teeth... and gunpowder is in your nose and throat. Blue smoke dissolves the spaces between individual people and for a brief moment we all are one... there is nothing but us. And we are charging. I went to my first South American futbal match last night. We won 2:0.
Besides the match itself, there was an entertaining side show going on the whole time. At first I thought the kids running around behind the goal were entertaining the crowd well enough, but the police and canine units had to make a push for team mascot, so they chased the kids off the backfield. The dogs won cause they had bigger teeth. Another cop in full riot gear was playing stomp out the fires... but it looked a lot more like whak/a/mole. The crowd got a kick.

Snowboarding was very fun, even though I haven't been able to sit quite right since. The lower slopes had iced over pretty good. I realize I'm going to need to buy some warmer clothes for my trek... thank god I bought a minus 18 degree C sleeping bag. There's just something about high winds in the Andes.

School started this week, so i have been busy learning espanol. I will upload pics as soon as I can get some WiFi.

Mendoza

How many bus rides begin with a shot glass of champagne and a pastry? Wine with microwaved dinner, and a glass of whisky on the rocks before the lights go out and the movie starts... 13 hours went by fast... I slept so well, the bus chairs were huge and reclined. And awoke to the snow capped Andes on the horizon. Not a bad trip for under $70 US.

Now, having said that. the 15 minutes right before I got on the bus were pretty intense. I was almost at gringo panic mode. That's ok, you can chuckle... I know I will when I read this again. But at that moment I was one frazled nate. I got to the bus station already late for my bus... didn't even know if I was waiting in the right place... no one would help me cause I couldn't speak spanish... and about 3 people had earlier warned me about getting mugged at the bus station. Hey, I might not have been prepared... but I never said I was a boy scout. So I took a moment to relax after pacing the length of the bus terminal, breathed for a moment, and finally noticed the giant (like huge) sign showing bus arrival gates. It's a good thing argentinian buses are later than I am. Hmm, what a concept... I think I like it here.

So long story short... I made it to Mendoza.

Too tired to give details for today, but I rode aPi bike around the city and ate 420 grams of incredible rare argentinian beef, wine, beer... and tomorrow I snowboard.

Pictures from today on the way!

Nate's Travel Tip #1: Airport Lockers

So I tried this when I was with Yin in China and it worked well.
If you ever are stuck or "spending some extra time" in a city (like a matter of days)... store your pack in a locker, and take a daypack. It is usually quite cheap and makes navigating buses/taxis much simpler.
Of course on this trip I misjudged the distance between my hostel and the airport, so after wearing the same pair of socks for 2 and a half days I finally broke down and rode for 2 hours out to the airport to get the bag.
So moral of the story... use airport lockers but make sure you have everything you need with you.
N

Buenos Aires Wrap Up

Well folks, its been four days in the beautiful city of Buenos Aires and I am officially bouncing. I forgot that I had only paid for three nights here at my hostel (Miltown), so when they told me they were all full tonight I bought an all-night bus ride to Mendoza. Here I come, Mendoza, at the base of the Andes... apparently famous for its wine and trekking... I am very excited!

The past few days have been nonstop. As soon as I arrived from my 13 hour trip I hopped on a walking tour of the Boca district. Brightly painted houses, art, and tango in the streets... a bit touristy (the famous Caminito street is no longer residential). However it was fun to imagine the streets at their bohemian crescendo. A port full of ships from everywhere and drinking, singing, and fighting in the cobbled streets. I was practically sleepwalking at this point and totally forgot the camera so here is just a random stock photo of Caminito off the web (http://www.worldisround.com/articles/10723/photo21.html).

I also got to see the Bocca Junior's Stadium... one of argentina's major futbal clubs. Seeing a game there is supposed to be a hell of an experience (on the todo list when I pass back thru).

The other two days were spent getting a feel for the city... errands, a night of tango (lessons, dinner, wine, and a show). I have never seen dancing like this... very hot, with sensational moves, and incredibly fast steps and variations. I was in awe.

Mornings are spent recovering. To my fellow bar warriors... get this... the night doesn't really start here until midnight or two a.m. That's right, I said 'start'. Pregaming is at 11. So lets just say I've been sleeping in a bit. Clubs range from Drum & Bass to 80's music. But last night was the best... argentinian club and argentinian partying.

You ever want an experience... go out with people who don't speak your language to a club where you can't understand shit, and hang on for the ride. Good stuff.

In any case... the decision to take spanish classes outside of Buenos Aires was easy. There are too many people that speak English in the city, people are generally less likely to engage in conversation, and the temptation to hang with hostel kids who speak English is too great. I have no question that I could make Argentinian friends, I have had great interactions with them, but I am severly handicapped by my complete and utterly embarrassing lack of Spanish. Priority number one is to learn the language... and since I want to trek as well... Mendoza it is.

N

Goodbyes

Due to my frantic attempt to pack and get the hell outta dodge I realize that I missed saying goodbye to many people. If I missed you its because you suck and I hate you. Joking, joking... seriously tho, I hope to see you all again and please keep in contact with me. I have lost friendships with quality people in the past when I made a move, and I don't want to lose any of you.
N

An Ode to Packing at the Last Minute

Packing is not always the funnest thing in the world to do...
which is why I have devised a failproof way to simplify and streamline your packing experience.
Do it all 4 hours before your plane leaves.
Impossible you say? Insane?
Maybe... but it's worth it for the following reasons.
It saves time: You will definately maximize efficiancy out of sheer panic.
You will pack light: Only the bare necessities go in the pack.
You won't remember it: Your brain is in such overdrive, you won't remember it as a pain in the ass.
Excitement: When your not sure if you'll make the flight as you sprint to the gate.
Perspective: Planning is overrated.
Of course you will need some extremely patient friends/family to help, and the goodbyes are usually much more cheerful cause everyone is so happy the whirlwind is over ;-)

So for anyone who wants to spice up their traveling experience (and its not for the faint of heart)... give it a shot and good luck!